Framura, seaside and trekking in Liguria

In the province of La Spezia, between Deiva Marina and Bonassola, Framura is a little town with mountains and olive terraces plunging sharply down into the sea in one of the best preserved and most attractive landscapes of Liguria.

Framura, Località Costa

Framura - © enrico zacchetti

Just like the Cinque Terre nearby, Framura owes much of its beauty to the harmony between man and his natural environment established over the centuries thanks to the inaccessibility of the area. This is where ancient Ligura comes back to life in a wild landscape patiently modelled over the centuries by reserved and industrious inhabitants. It is the wild and essential Liguria of Eugenio Montale, of silent mule tracks descending through vineyards and allotment walls to the sea, of tiny churches scourged by sea salt, of cats stretching out in the shade and sunny squares set above a blue, mysterious sea.

Framura’s beaches and little port

Torsei beach is right in front of the station and you get to it directly from the underpass at the station platform. Like almost all the bays of this section of the Ligurian Riviera, it is a little gravel beach with a deep blue, crystal clear and unpolluted sea. There are many cliffs which are good for sunbathing.

To the east of the station is the small and charming port from which you get a glimpse of the very beautiful, shady Porto Pidocchio beach, accessible on foot on a footpath and also dark gravel. The hamlet of Anzo, to the west of the station, also has an attractive beach.

Costa di Framura

Framura is not really a town at all. It’s really just a group of houses scattered over a rocky coastline plunging down to the sea, a series of hamlets linked by mule tracks with churches, fortifications, archaeological sites and other buildings of great interest. The hamlet of Costa di Framura is in an extraordinarily panoramic position over the sea and has some attractive walks in shady alleyways passing its Carolingian tower and the Church of San Martino. Pensione Silvia has a good restaurant with fresh fish and seafood and a hospitable and relaxing atmosphere.

Trekking

Those who love a good walk will adore Framura’s network of footpaths between the sea and the mountains.

How to get to Framura

By train. By far the easiest way to get to Framura is by train. On the Genoa-La Spezia line, there are frequent regional trains and the little station is one of the most attractive of the whole Italian rail network with its sea front position. You can get to the little port and the main beaches easily from here.

By car. Take the Deiva Marina motorway exit which is about 15 kilometres from the sea and from Framura. You are advised not to come by car in season because there aren’t many car parking spaces and the last section of road is an alternating one-way traffic system and can develop irritating bottlenecks. You can also leave your car in Costa and come down to the sea by bus.

On foot. The most attractive way to get to Framura is on foot along the hillside footpaths that link it with Deiva Marina (to the west) and Bonassola (to the east).